Slovenija a España

Two days ago climbed in Calders with amigos muy divertidos, almost flashed 7c+ and fell on the last move. Necesito mas resistencia! Tomorrow: climbing in Margalef!

Now, the good news and bad news...

BAD: I missed the registration for the European World Cup in Kranj by one half hour. I registered for the Youth Cup the next week, and it didn't go so well. :/ If my fingers weren't stuck in an awkward position under my leg, I would have made the podium...but this is in the past!

GOOD: Slovenijan girls are BADASSES. And Slovenija itself is amazing. Everyone was teaching me to speak Slovenijan, and we climbed in Osp, where Katja and I MIGHT send our first 8b! Mrtvaski Ples - "Dance of the Dead"

Ceuse to Siurana


Dave gave me this plant before he left Ceuse, haha :)

The cold drove me and Mau out of Ceuse. We were stamping our feet under Biographie on the last night, chanting "hace frio hace frio hace frio." Then we split up: Mau caught the bus; I stumbled trains. Then from Tarragona, I hitchhiked into Siurana - where my spanish meant nothing (everyone speaks Catalan.)


I was disoriented, depressed, and tired from traveling alone...so when we walked into the bar in Siurana, my brain made a popping noise. Although slightly deafened from the mix of languages flying across tables, I could hear the hiss of deflation as my brain shut down.

The room, lighted and ready to burst, was PACKED with climbers! I met Philipe, Flo, Matt...more people than I can even remember. It was really bad - I was forgetting names right and left there were so many strong climbers and semi-familiar faces. After that, the nine days in Siurana was the BOMB. Petzel threw a party with fire-dancing and music, then the bar closed for two days and everyone grumbled about the dearth of beer.

My friend was on the Petzel team and already had a belay partner, so I bounced around the camping meeting new people, bartering honey for toothpaste with Voldi and Mariana, my Icelandic neighbors (hey guys, is Voldi's name spelled right???) and eating with real characters. I grumbled about life and made russian rice with this guy Seth, watched cartoons with Miha, and relaxed around fires with people.

Climbing with Miha was crazy. We climbed in Montsant, near Siurana. He belayed with a YoYo. His rope was pink, old, and fluffy. And we had only 8 draws, so we had to skip bolts - this is amazing mental training. Just come from Ceuse and cold temps, I could barely work on Hydrophobia, and rest once or twice on a muy larga, super-chossy 7c.


Then, London.


Not much time, will emboss with witty commentary later!

I'm in North Carolina, bouldered in Boone with AJ and Jessa, and I'm going to Slovenja on Thursday. Pictures and full blog to come when I wander lost in the airport tomorrow.

Traveling so much, no time to write...

Man, I need to wake up from these weird day dreams about ladybugs...

I'm on my way to North Carolina in six hours for the bomber competition/slideshow event as a speaker (and MC) with ClimbUpSoKidsCanGrowUp.Org, which will take place in the hometown of the hospitable people and their racecars. There I will have a nice, relaxed week to prepare hard mentally for the Kranj Cup. For now I'm chilling with Christy Shoe, from the organization. (Take THAT surname and make crepes with it!)

So, on the topic of Siurana!

Siurana was like this: Parties. 7C+s in the sun. Fire-dancing. And the next morning, a coffee breakfast followed by the much-welcomed and slightly alarming, ritualistic "Who's a good dog? WHO'S A GOOD DOOOOOOG!?!!".

Over nine days I climbed in Siurana, Margalef and Montsant with really funny belay partners. We usually hopped in the back of someone's van or car, pfwat-pfwat-pfwatted to the chosen crag past thousands of potential routes, projects, and fisuras to the base of 20-meter bolt-lines.

I met some Icelandic dirtbags! Said hey to Chris and Daila, and Chax - their black labrador - and hooked up with the true bums: Bomby Domby, A-wax... the latter actually gave me a ride to Barcelona to catch my flight.

I realized, quickly after, that I'd forgotten to pay for the camp. ("Shizah!!!")

Sadly, my ass - er, buttocks, rather - was (were?) kicked on 7a the first day, 7c+ the next, and finally 8a. There was not much time for sends; not with the Petzel group rocking on epic projects. Sorry 8a. :-/

Hey - I also met Miha, Marco, and Toni (who owns the camping) during all this craziness!

Alright, the hotel kitchen is waking up. It's 4:35am and I need to grab a pair of shoes for the road. My hiking boots have fallen apart, and I've been walking in fuzzy green slippers for the past three days. They're quite comfortable. :)

Siurana

In Tarragona the train broke down in the heavy rain, so I hopped another to Reus. I'm headed for Siurana!